IT 50: Best for a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M or an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.

Helmut Lang technical vest from the A/W 1997-1998 collection. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy.

Helmut Lang's output was rarely defined by seasonal themes. Design elements from early 1990s collections were often reworked and reiterated until the label's demise, highlighting Lang's emphasis on refinement rather than novelty. This simple liner vest was first introduced in the designer's A/W 1990 collection, and was produced every season that followed in different fabrics and finishes (pictured: A/W 1998, A/W 1990 and S/S 1991). The '97 version of the classic design is given a more sober and minimalist update, in line with the collection's avant-garde streetwear aesthetic. 

The vest's clean design references classic waistcoats; the hem is slightly shorter on the back and subtly curves towards the centre, while the cut is slim and form-fitting. At the same time, the fine polyester fabric lends a sport-inspired modernity to the piece. The material has very soft texture, while a resin coating gives it a deep luster. The clean aesthetic is further complemented by a sleek zipper closure and Lang's iconic military-inspired square patch pocket on the chest. Although the vest has a relatively simple pattern, its finishing is of a very high standard: The piece is fully padded for increased warmth while remaining very lightweight. The interior lining is flawlessly finished with concealed seams, making the piece completely reversible. The Italian-made MRS zipper has a polished black finish that subtly complements the streamlined design.

Combining traditional sartorialism with technical performance, this classic piece demonstrates the transgressive refinement that made Helmut Lang's approach a paradigm-shifting force in the 1990s.